Friday, 29 October 2010

Vintage Costume Jewellery - Let's start with brooches

I have collected costume jewellery for many years - I did have a "I am only going to wear gold, silver and precious stones" period but that was pretty short lived as I could afford so little, I got bored with the few small pieces I had!
Older costume jewellery brooch designs, especially from the 1930's - 1960's  are amazing little pieces of art, the colours are brilliant and brave, the designs can be wild or subtle, as varied as the designers imaginations. While they were originally made for the particular season fashions and style almost as "throw away"  items they were so well made many remain intact and secure 50 years on.
Some of my pieces are signed others not, some single pieces and others are parure sets, they have one thing in common...they are all lovely to own, fun to collect and still interesting to wear today.
Try them in many ways -  to soften a business suit or heavy coat, give drama to a simple plain outfit, in a hair creation, on hats, on a ribbon round the neck or waist, on a belt, to secure a cravat, in multiples... any way you wish!
Broken or solo pieces can be re-made into unique new creations.
It is hard to date vintage items but searching old magazines gives a sense of the style of the day, signed pieces are sometimes catalogued or have been investigated by other collectors.

The most common clasp I see is the locking C clasp which is a c shaped hook with a spinning mechanism that locks the pin into place.
Plain C clasps seem to feature more on older pieces are a simple C shape to hook the pin in place. They can be misleading for dating however as some manufacturers still use them today.
My favourite it the rarer tube clasp where the pin is locked into place with a tube on a spring that can be pulled out and released over the pin.

I really have no idea about the best way to categorize these brooches and so here is a real hodge-podge for your visual delight!
Email me for any specific colour, designs or designers that are lots more in the shop, not yet shown here gertrudesnyder@vintagetreasure.co.nz
I will add more unsigned pieces here as I get more pictures taken and dedicate a separate posting to each designer.

Examples of AB stone designs:
Aurora borealis (ab) stones were developed in the 1950's when an iridescent coating was given to rhinestones. This shines many colours from blue to pink and more in the light. They shout 1950's as soon as you see them!
The round faceted shape of rhinestones stones is the most common and called a chaton. Stones that were secured with little prongs or claws I call 'claw set' and those that are glued into place I describe as 'paste set'.
 
Unsigned
Goldtone with pearl navettes and pink ab chaton stones
Layers
Claw set
C locking
5cms

Classic vintage sparkle
$45
Unsigned
Silvertone with blue ab and clear chaton stones
Paste set
Layers
C locking
4cms
Small compact and pretty
$25
Unsigned
Silvertone - an ab feast - pave set ab chatons
Paste set
C locking clasp
5cms

Swirly glamour
$35
Unsigned
Goldtone with imitation pearls and ab chaton stones
Claw set abs and paste pearls
Heavy and layered high
One replaced pearl and lost locking fastener
5cms

Not perfect but lovely
$20
Unsigned
Silvertone with different size ab chaton stones
Claw set
C locking
One stone missing
7.5cms
Big and dramatic
$40


Unsigned
Silvertone ab and pink chatons and round pearl cabochon in centre
Claw set
Light weight
3.5cms
C locking

Light and bright
$18


Unsigned
Goldtone with pink and green ab chatons and white pearl centre
Paste set
3.5cms
C clasp


$15
Unsigned
Silver tone single 'carnival glass' style stone
C locking clasp
Claw st
3.5cms
Some wear to stone but still displays well


Wow!
$15



Unsigned
Goldtone with blue and orange lustre finish single ab chaton stone
Claw set
C locking
8cms

Bold and beautiful
$45




Some figural brooches, people and animals:
A smooth un-facetted stone is called a cabochon and is usually round or oval with a flat back. The manufacturer Trifari developed true 'jelly'belly' figural brooches where the centre was usually a clear lucite stone. The name is now loosely used to describe animal figures with stone bodies.

Unsigned
Goldtone with red and white 'enamel' painted decoration ballerina
C locking
5.5cms


For the ballerina in your life
$22
 Unsigned
Goldtone with multi-coloured chaton stones rooster
Tail 'feathers' dangle with a nice movement
Claw set
C locking
8.5cms

Cock-a-doodle-do!
$75
Unsigned
Goldtone with large blue/purple cabochon stone and allover clear stone terrier
 "Jelly-belly' type
Claw set clear stones
3cms

For young and young at heart
$45
Unsigned
Purple lustre on metal cat with turquoise eyes
C locking
4cms
Purrrr
$24

Unsigned
Goldtone duck with large red glass 'jelly-belly' pave stone neck and wing
C locking
3cms


What a sweetie!
$40






Lovely clear stones in many designs:
Apart from a little sterling silver used during the war, most costume jewellery is a metal alloy. This is then sometimes coated with another metal to give a gold or silver finish. As a description I use 'silvertone' for silver coloured finish and 'goldtone' for gold coloured finish.

 Unsigned
Silvertone with clear navettes, bagettes and pave set stones in the shape of a heart and rose
4cms
Claw set navettes
C locking

Pure romance (see also matching earrings in sets)
$55
Unsigned
Silvertone with different size clear chaton stones in star burst design
Claw set
C locking
5cms

Big, classic and dramatic
$55

Unsigned
Silvertone with clear chaton stones in deep concentric circles
Claw set
4 layers
3cms
C locking clasp

Dainty, bright and clear
$30
Unsigned
Silvertone with clear chaton stones in an open oval
Paste set
4.5cms

A real statement
$40
 Unsigned
Silvertone with clear chaton stones set in a fan design
Paste set
5.5cms


Delicate and pretty
$35
Unsigned
Matt silvertone with clear two size chaton stone open work round
Paste set
C locking
4cms
Big clear stones
$38

Unsigned
Goldtone with clear chaton stones flowing flower design
Claw set
C locking
4cms

Good texture and design
$40
 Unsigned
Goldtone with 2 cabochon clear small stones
Paste set
5cms
Sweet and delicate
$12
Unsigned
Goldtone with clear navette stones flower and stems design
C Clasp
Claw set
6cms

Older elegant design
$30
Unsigned
Dark metal with clear chaton stones on flat filigree base
C clasp
Claw set
3.5cms

Quality vintage look
$40

Unsigned
Matt silvertone with clear chaton stones
Paste set
C locking
2.5cms
Shines brightly
$25







Goldtone brooches with minimal stones:
Plain brooches in bows, leaves, flowers, knots, swirls and shapes abound. Elegant and simple they are easy to wear with almost any colour outfit and add the finishing touch beautifully. I have seen them used in groups to great effect.

Unsigned
Goldtone flowing bow
C clasp
5.5cms across
Oozes elegance
$22
 Unsigned
Goldtone shiny knot design
8.5cms
Simplicity itself
$22
Unsigned
Goldtone brooch stylised design
C locking clasp
4.5cms x 1cms

Broken wishbone maybe
$15
Unsigned
Goldtone double mesh hat with chain between
3cms each hat 15.5cms chain

Very unusual and cute
$45



Unsigned
Goldtone bow brooch with hanging pendant designs
One with a small flower and clear stone
One with a natural polished brown stone
3.5cms x 3.5cms
C locking clasp
Sweet as
$18 each
 Unsigned
Goldtone yellowy roses and leaves
C locking
5.5cms


Roses you can keep for ever
$22

Unsigned
Goldtone maple leaf
C locking clasp

5.5cms

Natural beauty
$20
Unsigned
Goldtone single leaf brooch
C locking clasp
6cms

Autumn gold
$20

Unsigned
Matt goldtone three sailing ships
C clasp
4.5cms
$65

Unsigned
Goldtone with small chaton green stones wishbone
Also in pink stones
C locking
Paste set
3.5cms
Wish upon this...
$18 each
Unsigned
Goldtone bow with green chatons
Paste set
C locking clasp
3cms across
Small and sweet
$18

Wooden brooches: 
Sometimes wired together and sometimes pasted together, wooden brooches always remind me of crafts people and the 1960's.

Unsigned
Wooden bead brooch
Wired
C locking
3.5cms

Retro-active
$15





Some enamel style brooches: The subtle colours of enamel.

Unsigned
Goldtone with coloured chaton stones, enamel and imitation pearl flower
5.5cms
C locking
Pretty and colourful
$35
Unsigned
Goldtone black and clear pave stone
C locking
7cms

Classic elegant art deco
$25
 Unsigned
Silvertone enamel snowman brooch
C locking
5cms

What a cool sweetie!
$18






Turquoise coloured stones:
Ever since I visited new Mexico I have loved the look of turquoise, any kind and most settings.

 Unsigned
Goldtone small cabochon turquoise swirls
Paste set
C locking
4cms

You gotta love turquoise...perfect with anything
$28






Multi-coloured stones:
Some people think that the more colour the better the piece of vintage jewellery. Well, I agree that the bolder brighter and more dramatic the piece the more I envy it. Look at the 'signed designer' posts for very outrageous sets.

 Unsigned
Silvertone with bright pink navettes in flower design
Claw set
C locking
5cms
Pretty in pink
$45

Unsigned
Goldtone cut work with purple navettes and green chatons
Paste set
C locking clasp

5cms

Elegant and classic
$35
Unsigned
Silvertone with multicoloured chaton stones and open work leaves
Paste set
Lost locking mechanism
5cms

Every colour you'll want
$28
Unsigned
Matt silvertone with orange cabochon and ab chatons
Centre claw set
Paste set abs
C locking
3.5cms
Bright and cheery
$22
Unsigned
Goldtone with clear, red and green chaton stones
Claw set
C locking
3.5cms

It'll win their heart
$35
Unsigned
Goldtone mesh leaves with oval blue stone flowers
Claw set
C locking
5cms
Real retro look
$28
Unsigned
Matt goldtone with pink and red chaton stones on tall stamen
Paste set
C locking
5.5cms
Sweet and lovely
$40
Unsigned
Coppertone filigree with pink chaton and molded stones
C locking clasp
Claw set
4.5cms

Pretty in pink
$15


Check back - more to come....

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